maandag 12 maart 2018

Mountain View Pull-on Jeans

I have new jeans! Two pairs, very comfy jeans. Over the years I made quite a few pairs of jeans ( the Ginger jeans, 3 times, the pull on from Jallie once, a few from Burda, the Liana form Itch to stitch, 2 times) and this one is also going on the favorites pile. This is the Mountain View pull-on jeans pattern form Itch to stitch. 
While I am not afraid of the fly front zipper closure, or buttonholes, the pull on is really an easy and fast one to make. 

I made a size 4 and I took 1cm off from the back leg, from the crotch down. Also, I took the leg width in, to make them more skinny style, following the leg on my Liana jeans, but in the instructions of the Mountain view it is explained how to adjust for the skinny style. I made the pattern shorter by 2" ( 5 cm) .
The pattern has real pockets on the front something I was missing on my Jallie pattern. I made the pockets on the grey pair with french seams, I thought it will look nice with my pretty fabric. The colored overlocker thread is a nice accent...also I was too lazy to change it from the other pair I just finished  :)) Here you can also see the wide waistband; there is also elastic at the waist, sewn inside the waistband. Very important in making this pattern is to use fabric that stretches at least 20% , otherwise, you will not be able to pull them over your hips. The blue denim stretches 20% and the grey coated denim 25%. I think making first the waistband and try it on it will give you a good impression if your denim stretches enough. 

As always with jeans, this is the perfect project for playing with topstitching and before playing I had a difficult time deciding on what color thread to choose and finally, I went with red on this dark blue denim and mustard/yellow on the grey pair. I am pretty happy with my choices this time :) .   
After I made the first pair and I knew how the fit was, the second one was very fast. To make things even faster I use an old Pfaff Jubileum 125 for topstitching so that I don`t have to keep changing thread on my regular sewing machine.  

I think it does a great job. I am always using a topstitching needle with Gutermann topstitching thread and regular thread in the bobbin. 

While the fit is not perfect, both pairs are very comfortable and already getting a lot of wear. I still need to find  a solution for those wrinkles behind me knees!

This coated denim it does has more stretch than the blue one but it is stiffer and I think because of that leather look of the fabric, every wrinkle is much more evident. I don`t like that! ( but this is like my 3rd pair of coated denim jeans :))

The legs on this version are just a smidge wider than in the blue version ( 1/8" 0.3 mm per seam).Very comfortable!

Something I find annoying when making jeans is finding the best ( or close to that !!)  place for the back pockets. I hate all the pinning or trying to place it while you are also looking in the mirror and so I was in a hurry and first I wanted to measure the placement on the Liana jeans but this pattern has a different yoke size so that was a bad idea! And then I saw a roll of double-sided tape on my table!!!! That is PERFECT for this job. I placed a piece on my pocket and peeled the other side off and so I could move the pocket and keep it in place without pins or anything. After sewing the pocket I removed very easy the tape and that was the most easier way until now to place my back pockets on jeans! 

This pattern is definitely a winner! Together with the Liana jeans, these are now my favorite jeans patterns!

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