zondag 24 september 2017

Beryl Bomber Dress-Named

Ahh, Named Patterns, they have so many patterns I want to sew and
 most of them I have them too but from past collections, I only managed to sew the  Tyyni Cigarette trousers, which I wear very often and the Talvikki Sweater, also a favorite. I hope I can sew this fall the Pilvi Coat dress   and some more but until then I managed to sew one of the patterns out the latest collection, Fall/Winter '17 Earth Science and that is The Beryl Bomber Dress  .

This pattern is inspired by the bomber jacket, with a V-neck and wide rib knit collar. The dress is unlined at it has a front zipper closure. The advice is to use a firm rib knit for the collar, but I could not find any in the right color and so I went with this fine rib knit but next time I will try to find something much more stable as this one is a bit too soft and is not staying up  at the back .
I used a stretch cotton which I bought a while ago only because I loved the colors and even if I love the result I think that this dress will be perfect in a softer fabric with a bit more drape.

I agonized about choosing which size to make. I am between 3 sizes on Named size chart so I kind of blended between the three. This is made in size 36 for the shoulders, 40 for the bust, 38 to the waist and 36 hips, I know, I think I was still agonizing when I decided on what to cut :) . I make almost always a muslin but I thought this was a loose fitting dress so I took my chance. I  got lucky this time as I am very happy with the fit. I can`t wait to make another version of this!

Yeah, I think the sleeves are a bit too long...the pattern is saying 3/4 sleeves but on me is a bit odd length, not long and not 3/4, so that will get adjusted in the next version. The front has bust darts and I am happy that those are coming in the right spot. Love the big pockets on this dress !

For the waist elastic casing is used a 4.5cm ribbon but I did not have that so I used a piece of cotton instead and that worked great. The instructions are great and this dress was pretty easy to sew. 

This little guy wanted to help but actually, he made the whole "taking pictures process"  taking three times longer :)) 
So, this is my Beryl dress and I am very happy with it. I would love to try the Agate Pencil dress but I think first I want to make a new shirt, Lisette has a new pattern, The recital Shirt , and because I already made that other shirt pattern they have ( and the pieces of the new one can be combined with the Classic shirt) , the fitting part is easy. 

dinsdag 5 september 2017

Kristen Dress -Designer Stitch Two times

Finally something new in almost one month! And this is not just  "something", there are actually two dresses that I love. This is the latest pattern from Designer Stitch, Kristen dress, and the testing started exactly when I was going away for the summer holidays so I can`t say that I tested this, so this is more like a review.
The Kristen dress has a princess style bodice with pleated flared skirt. It comes with cups sizes ( B, C, D and DD)  and in sizes 2-22. It can be sleeveless or with flared sleeves. There are also optional side seams pockets.

 I wanted to make this dress really bad as I love the ruffles and the skirt volume. You can see that I loved the ruffles so much and so I made the first dress without them :)). 
I could not decide on the fabric to use, and because I was not pressed by the timeline for the testing I did have a lot of time to think about my fabric choice. I had a few other fabrics in my stash for this but the skirt was not fitting and so I had to search again ( in my stash :) ) and found this...perfect width, great print/color but the weight was not good to make it with the ruffles. This is a stretch poly crepe, medium weight and there was no way I could get ruffles out of it...or at least nice ones. I think it looks great without too.

I made a size 2C ( US4) for the shoulders and bust blending to size 3 at the waist. It was possible to make a size 2 also for the waist as I have a bit of ease there, but like this, it is very comfortable around my waist ( I can eat at ease without being afraid that I will pop out of my dress ). I made my usual changes ( 1cm narrow shoulders adjustment, 1 cm sway back adjustment and at the center back neck I took 1 cm ( with a total of 2cm) out blending to nothing as I had a bit of gaping in my muslin stage) Also I took 5cm off the length of the skirt ... I am thinking now that I could put that back in a future dress to get another look. Really happy with the fit, like very very happy! 

   I had to decide on the print matching...while I was only in the mood to sew, so after getting up on the front, pretty fast,  I took some time to get the back matched, at the zipper. It looks ok...maybe like 1mm off but who is looking ?? :)) I interfaced the zipper area for strength and to get a bit more grip on my stretchy fabric.

I love this dress, the fit is great, and I think I love it so much also because I did not have to work so much to make it fit,  Ann from Designer Stitch knows her thing :).
And because I love so much this version and because this pattern is about the ruffles, I made immediately one more, with ruffles! Both fabrics are from Driessenstoffen  ( no affiliate).

I love when I can sew, without worrying about the fit. You get that when you make repeats of the same pattern, so this was easy and fast. The ruffles did make my life difficult ( and my fingers to hurt). Actually, the fabric is to be blamed! This is a polyester crepe, lovely print, and drape but sewing was a bit of a pain. I had to use a 75 stretch needle as the 80 and 90 were too thick and this 75 stretch was the only one that wanted to sew well. Also gathering this fabric was a pain ....I used big stitches for my gathering stitches but not too big as the front and the neck ruffles are gathered with one row, but oh boy the fabric did not want to move on my thread! For the armholes ruffles I tried to gather with my serger as I sometimes do on 6mm SA, but that was also a pain...anyway , after a bit of swearing and sweating, it was done ! 

This is not me twirling :), is just the wind, the skirt has nice flare and the fabric is light...which makes it dangerous  wearing it on the street on a windy day :)))
There were no changes, I used the same pattern as in the black/flowers print.

Really love the ruffles! New haircut, as you can see in these pictures, I have no idea what to do with it, I wore my hair for years in a pony tail so I need to find my way with it, I hope :))

And now off to do some more sewing :) 
PS: The Kristen dress is now for a limited time on sale  

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woensdag 2 augustus 2017

Dress Knipmode June 2017 Take 2

As I mentioned in this post this dress was almost finished and needed only the hem done. 
I love working with a pattern I know it fits and therefore I can really enjoy the sewing process. 

Because I made it already one time before ( twice if you count the muslin) the sewing went really fast, even that bow detail was not a problem. 

As in the first one, also in this dress, I interfaced the seams where the zipper is sewn. The fabric is a crepe polyester from Driessen stoffen, very nice print and color, perfect for this dress.

This pattern will be made again, maybe next summer :). It is very easy but then with a bit of interest. Love it!

donderdag 27 juli 2017

Easy dresses Patrones 374 #7

I was in a search for an easy dress pattern to wear in my soon to come holiday. Something wide, not too long, and also to look a bit put together. First I tried a muslin for the Kobe dress from Papercut Patterns. I really liked that back detail. Well, the muslin was terrible on me, armholes too low, sleeves too wide, shoulder seams too wide, I usually adjust these things on the patterns I sew but the  back is pulling the front to the back and after wearing the muslin around the house that bothered me a lot. I tried to move the shoulder seam a bit to the front but I am still not happy. 

Anyway, I put the Kobe on hold and then I saw this pattern in the Patrones 374. It is sleeveless, so perfect for warm days, it is wide, easy breezy ; but  I hated that armhole dart. I made a muslin in size 38 for the shoulders and armholes and 40 for the rest. 

The dart was really bothering me, looking more like a last time fix on my armhole so that had to go . Also, the armhole is really low in the original pattern.  So, I moved the dart on the bust, I raised the armhole  2.5cm and the neck is 0.5cm lowered.

The pattern is finished with facings, but I finished my neck line and armholes with bias strips. Also, I skipped the zipper, which is totally decorative ( as decorative as an invisible zipper can be ) unless you have a really big head :) . 

 The dress is really easy to make , I love the pleat in the back .These 2 dresses and the top are going with me fo sure. Love both looks with or without belt . The fabrics are viscose and perfect for this pattern, the pleat need a drapey fabric to fall nice. 

The fabrics for the dresses are from  Driessen  and the top is a left over piece from my Maxy Kiera skirt 

Very happy with this items, next I am starting on a muslin on the last Colette pattern, the Penny dress, and I am still looking for a pattern to make this dress, I have the original fabric, scuba with an amazing print.
picture : Navabi

woensdag 19 juli 2017

Dress Knipmode June 2017

Finally, a non-tester garment :).
 This is a lovely pattern. It is a pattern from KnipMode 6/2017. As usual, my biggest problem is to choose the right size. The pattern is in sizes 34-54. In their size chart, I am a 38 for the bust and waist and 34 for the hips ( b92  w71 h92). So I made the muslin accordingly but it was way too big. I decided that size 34 will be perfect. The pattern has a drop shoulder but the way it was fitting it was restricting my arms, to fix that I took 2 cm off from the shoulder seam length.

Size 34 fits me perfect ( in this pattern), in the back bodice are 2 darts, the front has also 2 pleats and it gets closed with a side zipper. I read in the magazine that you could make this in a jersey fabric, I guess in that case you could skip the zipper. The fabric is a woven poly crepe, medium weight with a bit of stretch and I think is perfect for this pattern, almost perfect, because of the print there are some details lost.

Usually I don`t read instructions but in this case, you have those ties to construct. The one on the right side is just a piece of fabric, doubled and sewn at the side but the second one is a bit more complicated, one piece is part of the bodice and to that, you need to attach another piece. Well, I know Kinpmode instructions are a bit Burda style but in this case, the instructions are great, everything gets perfect together. 

I have a second version of this almost ready, needs a hem still. I like it a lot. Very flattering, not too much fabric in the skirt. Nice fitted bodice at the back and comfy in the front. These versions are both unlined but I am planning to make one more in a thinner cotton so I was wondering how to line the bodice, because of the ties part. I wrote an email to Knipmode and I got the next day answer to my question. If you use only the right side of the bodice cut on the fold you can make that as a lining and the skirt with the pleats closed. Nice that they are so helpful.

vrijdag 7 juli 2017

Oceanside Dress-Itch to Stitch pattern

I am very bad at combining fabrics prints and colors. Usually, I agonize about choosing the perfect fabric for my projects but when I need also to match fabrics /colors/prints then I go really crazy about it.
This is the latest pattern from Itch to Stich Patterns, the Ocean Side Dress
Made for knit fabrics, loose fitting bodice, fitted waist band, and a half circle skirt.

I made size 6 for the bodice and 4 for the waist and skirt. I added 2 cm at the hem of the skirt but I am a bit undecided about the length I like in this dress.

The solid version of my Oceanside dress is a knit with more than 50 %stretch horizontal and vertical, the contrasting gray has almost no stretch. 

The printed version is made in a very light ponti with no vertical stretch and the contrast in a light jersey. To avoid bulk at the waist I used the same thin jersey for the second layer of the waist. Also the cuff facings are made in the thin jersey. 

This dress is so comfortabel, really, like I want to keep it all day on.
Also it is very easy and fast to make. I made mine almost entirely on the serger. The hem is sewn with the cover. Oh boy, I love it when it works and hate it when is acting out , I have an Janome CPX  With this kind of stable knits is almost allways a succes. With thinner jerseys it is a strugle, most of the time after making a bunch of samples ( and feeling stupid that I can't get it good)  I am giving up and ending up with the trusty double needle hem.

Back to the dress, as I said it is very easy to make, the pattern instructions are great, as for all ITS patterns.
You could easily make a top with a peplum insteed of the whole skirt or a circle skirt with the fitted waist band. The stretch of the fabric is really important to consider when you chose the size to make, the waist needs to stretch when you put the dress on / off .

At the waist band / skirt seam you are instructed to add also clear elastic. I found this step really important as the skirt can get a bit heavy. I sewn the waistband , skirt and elastic in one step , with my serger. The regular foot on my serger has a hole where I can thread the 6 mm elastic thru. I marked all the notches also on my elastic and I stretch that to meet the notches on my skirt seam . It worked perfect!

Well needless to say I love both versions of my Oceanside dress , perfect for the summer !

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donderdag 29 juni 2017

Ella PJ`s set from Designer Stitch Patterns (free pattern)

I am always in search of the perfect PJ's. I have the Closet Case pattern already cut ( like 4 months ago) in a beautiful cotton but I still need to start sewing that one. Beeing a tester for Designer Stitch, when Ann came with this pattern I knew that there was my chance to actually make a pair of nice pajamas. I work (sew) always good with deadlines. 

This is the latest pattern from Designer Stitch, the Ella Cami set, a cami and relaxed elastic shorts or long pants with pockets.  I made mine in a drapey viscose and I must say that this set is so nice to wear. First I thought, who needs pockets in a pajama pant, but I love them. The relaxed fit of the cami is perfect, not too boxy.

I made my set in size 3 for the top and size 2 for the pants ( for the record, and easy to understand the sizing of the pattern, my measurements are 92-71-94 and 169cm ) .I only shortened the pants by 6cm. I made a second cami already ( to wear with jeans), it is such an easy project and I think if you omit the lower flounce and lengthen the bodice of the cami , you can make this with just a bit of fabric. Also omitting the facings and finishing with a bias will be very easy to do.

The Ella set is now ( until 4th of July ) on sale, as the rest of the Designer Stitch shop, but by joining the Designer Stitch Facebook group  you will find a discount code to get this pattern FREE. Great pattern, with a lot of possibilities, not only for PJ's; made in the right fabrics also for everyday wear. 

woensdag 14 juni 2017

Bridget blouse and Alyse pants -Designer Stitch Patterns

This month Designer Stitch is celebrating its 1-year anniversary. I wanted to sew a DS pattern for this occasion and I ended up sewing 2. So happy anniversary Designer Stitch ( and congrats to Ann Grose the mastermind behind the patterns).

 The pants are the Alyse slim leg pants , made for woven stretch fabrics with 4% spandex...The pants are based on a stretch ratio of 20% 
I made my first muslin in size 3, in a stretch cotton sateen and it was a bit too big overall so smart me, I took size 2 as I was think that it will be much better overall, and made a new a fabric with almost no stretch....I know... Stupid me. Ofcourse it didn't fit so I cut in the same fabric as the first one and the fit was almost perfect. 

This is sewn with 1cm SA instead of 1.5cm, also I took a bit of fabric from the back leg out and I think the fit is really nice. I omitted the pockets. I made my final pants also in a stretch cotton sateen. Love the snug fit and the slim legs...that are not too tight.

The blouse is the Bridget pattern , and I used the sleeves from the "short sleeve " pack, the mid-elbow sleeve. 
I made this pattern also here in a red crepe, and here in a polyester fabric, so I had no fitting work .I used the same pattern as for the red Bridget, size 2C for the bust and blending at 4 for the waist and 6 for the hips. No waist darts and no zipper. This pattern has cup sizing so that makes it easy to fit.

This coral crepe was so nice to sew. So spongy and soft. Also to wear is a pleasure, it even has a bit of stretch .

The lace sleeves were pretty easy to sew. For the sleeve seam, I used first a straight stitch and then at a 0.5 cm or something like that away from the straight stitching line, I did a small zigzag and trimmed the rest of my SA next to the zigzag. I saw this finishing method in the "Sewing lingerie" class from Alison Smith, on Craftsy . My corded lace wouldn't feed nicely under the locker. 

I finished the neckline with a stroke of lace , sewn first by machine turned and hand sewn in place. The stroke is also finished with a small zigzag.

I also finished the armholes with a bias band, self-made and finished by hand. The side and shoulder seams are sewn with french seams. I love the neat look inside.   For the sleeves hem, I used the edge of my fabric.

And the inside :)

And this is it. Two nice pieces in my wardrobe, and two pieces of fabric out of my stash.
On the Designer Stitch Patterns Support  Facebook group are this week all kind of special offers and giveaways, I think it worth taking a look.
Happy Anniversary, Designer Stitch and Ann keep up the good work.

Thank you for reading! 

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