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woensdag 14 juni 2017

Bridget blouse and Alyse pants -Designer Stitch Patterns



This month Designer Stitch is celebrating its 1-year anniversary. I wanted to sew a DS pattern for this occasion and I ended up sewing 2. So happy anniversary Designer Stitch ( and congrats to Ann Grose the mastermind behind the patterns).



 The pants are the Alyse slim leg pants , made for woven stretch fabrics with 4% spandex...The pants are based on a stretch ratio of 20% 
I made my first muslin in size 3, in a stretch cotton sateen and it was a bit too big overall so smart me, I took size 2 as I was think that it will be much better overall, and made a new muslin...in a fabric with almost no stretch....I know... Stupid me. Ofcourse it didn't fit so I cut in the same fabric as the first one and the fit was almost perfect. 


This is sewn with 1cm SA instead of 1.5cm, also I took a bit of fabric from the back leg out and I think the fit is really nice. I omitted the pockets. I made my final pants also in a stretch cotton sateen. Love the snug fit and the slim legs...that are not too tight.



The blouse is the Bridget pattern , and I used the sleeves from the "short sleeve " pack, the mid-elbow sleeve. 
I made this pattern also here in a red crepe, and here in a polyester fabric, so I had no fitting work .I used the same pattern as for the red Bridget, size 2C for the bust and blending at 4 for the waist and 6 for the hips. No waist darts and no zipper. This pattern has cup sizing so that makes it easy to fit.

This coral crepe was so nice to sew. So spongy and soft. Also to wear is a pleasure, it even has a bit of stretch .

The lace sleeves were pretty easy to sew. For the sleeve seam, I used first a straight stitch and then at a 0.5 cm or something like that away from the straight stitching line, I did a small zigzag and trimmed the rest of my SA next to the zigzag. I saw this finishing method in the "Sewing lingerie" class from Alison Smith, on Craftsy . My corded lace wouldn't feed nicely under the locker. 


I finished the neckline with a stroke of lace , sewn first by machine turned and hand sewn in place. The stroke is also finished with a small zigzag.

I also finished the armholes with a bias band, self-made and finished by hand. The side and shoulder seams are sewn with french seams. I love the neat look inside.   For the sleeves hem, I used the edge of my fabric.

And the inside :)


And this is it. Two nice pieces in my wardrobe, and two pieces of fabric out of my stash.
On the Designer Stitch Patterns Support  Facebook group are this week all kind of special offers and giveaways, I think it worth taking a look.
Happy Anniversary, Designer Stitch and Ann keep up the good work.

Thank you for reading! 


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donderdag 8 juni 2017

Beausoleil Dress-Itch to stitch



At the moment is like I am doing only "testing" sewing, but I think the deadlines are a push for me to finish the garments on time. Life can get a little busy, so if normal I will take my time with a project when testing a pattern I need to finish on time. So, the latest pattern testing was, for Itch to Stitch patterns, for lovely Kennis. A  new pattern, the Beausoleil dress & top, absolutely on trend but definitely not something I would buy from a store, not that I buy any clothes but this "cold shoulder" style is not something that I ever considered. Testing patterns is for me also the possibility to get out my comfort zone and try new things.


Beausoleil has cup sizing A, B, C, D and DD, sizes 00-20, option for a dress or top, center back lapped zipper ( with a great tutorial on ITS blog), patch pockets for the dress option.
I made my dress in my usual 4C size for the upper part and based on my actual measurements (71cm waist and 92 cm hips) I went with size 0 for the waist and hips. The only change I made was my sway back adjustment, 2 cm .


Most difficult for me was deciding on which fabric to use, I wanted something not too stiff but also strong enough to support the zipper. I went with this polyester, wich I bought a while ago without a project in my head for it. I think it works great for this dress but it was slightly sheer so I had to line the skirt part. For that, I used the skirt from my muslin, a blue cotton ( of course blue, it is like I own all the blue fabric in the world :)) ) It was perfect, I kinda did my thing with attaching it to the dress but it worked. After I attached the zipper to the skirt I attached the lining skirt at the waist of the dress leaving a few cm unsewn at the zipper and that I attached by hand to finish around the zipper. 


and here is how it looks from the inside 


The neckline and the shoulder "holes" are finished with facings, interfaced facings and to get a nice clean edge on my facings I used a technique I learned in a Craftsy class, Mastering constructions: Collars and closures with Sara Alm. You sew the interfacing to the facing, right sides together and then you turn the interfacing to the inside and press it to fuse it to the main fabric.


...and the inside of the interfaced facing.


I could not decide which what color thread to use for sewing my hem so I did it by hand, it looks very clean and nice from the outside.


Very happy with my new dress, also it is the perfect match for this wedges.
The Beausoleil pattern is on sale for a few days on the Itch to Stitch webshop.


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donderdag 1 juni 2017

Classic shirt -Liesl+co.


I can`t remember when I made my last shirt, must be a few years back  ( also a blue one :) )  but I really wanted a new one. I have a few patterns in my stash ( actually a lot of them if I count also the Burda/Knipmode/Patrones magazines) but this one, the Classic shirt from Liesl+ co. came very fast on the top of my list.

The pattern has cup sizing A,B,C and D , this is always a plus for me, it has a relaxed fit but not boxy, a nice hem shape and I love the collar. It was the first time sewing with a PDF from Liesl+co but everything went smooth; layered pattern tiles, so I  printed only my size.


I bought the pattern after I saw the Sew Along on their blog. That convinced me that I could sew the collar and the sleeve plackets without too much trouble. And yes, it was so so easy. Everything is so well explained with clear pictures.

I made my shirt in size 4C and after making a muslin I made a few changes: 1.5cm off from the shoulder seam, the bodice and sleeves shortened by 4 cm and also typical for me, 2 cm sway back adjustment. Also, I moved the buttonholes a little in order to get one button at my high bust line.


I like the width of the sleeves and also the size of the collar. To sew the pockets I draped the shirt over my pressing ham, to get them nicely placed over the bust dart.


Of course, I made it in a simple ( boring )  blue fabric, cotton/polyester, but now that I am happy with the fit I can go wild...probably some blueprints :))). The plus side is that I can wear it with a lot of things, even with my  Kiera maxi skirt.


Love the slightly shaped yoke and the small pleats. 


I am so happy with this shirt, I love the fit and it is pretty easy to sew too. 





woensdag 31 mei 2017

Anza Dress


A while ago I tested the Anza jumpsuit, for Itch to Stitch patterns. That pattern comes also with a dress option. The upper bodice is the same as the one from the jumpsuit only with a skirt for the lower part. 

I made it in size 4C and I shortened the skirt by 4 cm . I had the dress very fast finished, almost, but sewing the buttons did take longer than sewing the whole dress. It is something with sewing buttons ...I don`t know, it must be. A few days ago I finished the Classic shirt from Liesl+co. but I still need to sew the buttons and I just can`t push myself to do that, very strange :))).


I really like this dress and I wore it a few times already. Very easy to wear, love the deep pockets and the relaxed fit.

I made my dress in a very nice deep red crepe, ( in real life is not so bright red ) and lined the pocket flaps with a nice satin, also used for the skirt pockets. I did not line the breast pockets this time. I love the buttons and I think the gold with red it looks really nice. Again I used some metal beads as cord stoppers.


I could wear this dress every day, with flats it could be my uniform :)
Here is my Jumpsuit from the same pattern.



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maandag 22 mei 2017

Kiera Skirt- New pattern Designer Stitch



This is going to be my favorite item for the summer! The new Kiera Skirt from Designer Stitch! This is perfect for our summers.  Even if  I am not ( yet) a skirt person, I can totally see myself wearing maxi skirts all the summer.  



The Kiera skirt has two options, the one I made with a flat yoke and another version with a shirred back yoke and optional waist ties. You can add ties on the inside of the skirt and by tying them you can create different looks in changing the length of the skirt. There are some amazing testers versions with this option.


I made mine in size 3  in a beautiful crepe, that has the perfect weight for this skirt, I just love it. 


The skirt has 8 panels, 4 for the front and 4 for the back. The print was just too big and crazy to try any matching. The sewing was very fast, finished all the seams with my serger. I want to give a try to the shirred yoke, the instructions of how to do that are very clear.


During testing,  I found this amazing crepe at my "fabric guy" ( he is not mine or anything :), I pay for my fabric, but he has beautiful fabrics, sometimes real gems ). This fabric is so soft and "spongy "  and the print is amazing. So...this was screaming  Maxi Kiera, so in two days after buying it I had my skirt done...So happy that I can enjoy this fabric in this beautiful skirt.


I am 1.69m tall and I added 2 cm to the length. To make the fit easy, I made a muslin only for my yoke. So I could see where the yoke was hitting on my waist and so I decided also on the length.


So there are my new additions to my summer wardrobe, I know I will get a lot of wear of my two Kiera skirts and if I find more of this perfect fabrics, I know I will make a few more. 

The new Kiera Skirt is on sale at the moment at the Designer Stitch shop as a PDF with instructions in English.



donderdag 18 mei 2017

Passenger Trench Coat for girls -Ottobre Magazine 1/2013


I love this pattern! I wish there was something like this for adults , but until then I will make more for my daughter. This is the Passenger trench from Ottobre Magazine ( 1/2013) . I made it in 2015 in a beautiful cotton stretch print in size 110 and now  I decided on size 128 but I think a size smaller it would have been also ok, this is a little big in the shoulders but I know she is growing so fast so it is fine.

This is the first Passenger, can`t believe that this is 2 years ago!


This is a straight size 128 with the only adjustment for the sleeve length, I shortened the pattern by 1.5 cm . Also, I interfaced the front panel of the jacket, in the instructions is the facing that gets interfaced only. Also, I cut the undercollar on the bias to get a better roll. 



I had a hard time deciding on the buttons for this, but I think these ones are perfect. The color is just enough to pop and with the little silver/gray are not boring. Sewing wise, everything went pretty smooth. I can`t understand the Ottobre instructions always, most of the time actually. But it is a jacket and after you make a few it is like sewing a t-shirt . The fabrics are also easy to handle and press, so no problems.


And talking about boring, the lining is for sure not boring! I told her that she can choose the lining, I know she is crazy about busy, shiny fabrics so there you have it :))). 




I am so pleased with this small trench, I wish I could wear a print trench...:)) Lisa is very happy with it and that makes me even happier.  



dinsdag 16 mei 2017

Lago Tank -Free pattern from Itch to stitch




This pattern is a stash buster and it is a winner in the category " instant gratification" and to make it even better, the latest pattern from Itch to Stitch is free . You can download the Lago from the Itch to Stitch shop here .


Even if it is free I must assure you that the pattern is fully tested as all the other Itch to Stitch patterns are. The pattern comes in 00-20 sizes and it is made for knit fabrics.


I made my tops in size 6 for the upper body tapering to size 4 from the waist down. Also, I shortened the tank at the pattern lines by 4 cm.

The neck and armholes are finished with a  folded band...very easy. I made my tops with the serger and only the hem with a twin needle on my sewing machine. The blue print Lago is made in 30min from cutting to wear :)...if that is not fun... and lesser than 1m of fabric for one tank

I love the relaxed fit and I know that will come more of this tops in my closet.


You can download the free Lago tank here, also free is the Lindy Petal skirt, which I want to try soon. 


Here you can see all the versions made by the testers! 

dinsdag 9 mei 2017

Eleni Top- Designer Stitch pattern



The weather is not really appropriate for this kind of tops or any other kind of summer clothing but I keep making them in the hope that when the hit strikes ( hahahhaha....that happens like never here ) I will have pretty clothes to wear.  This top is my second one from the Eleni top from Designer Stitch Patterns. The first one is here.

Here are all the options for this pattern, but I guess you can endless variate on this, there are instructions how to adapt the pattern for a peasant neckline if the off the shoulder is not your style.
The version I made now is the short sleeve top with the flounce but you could easy make the top with the flounce, omitting the sleeves, then you can finish the armholes with a bias binding. 

The first time I made this top I used a pretty stiff cotton but now I used a very soft silk cotton, I had this for years in my stash ( still have one piece in the same print but in pink/orange(ish) color) so I am happy to have it sewn. 

The most work on this top was hemming, the fabric was not very cooperating but with a little patience, I`ve got it done. And this is all I had to say about the Eleni top, I hope I can make one more for the summer, maybe the dress version.


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